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The Plunging Breaker

Traveling through space and time as energetic agents, ocean waves are the result of disturbances of the water surface.
As some waves approach landmasses, they experience the breaking phenomenon, a happening associated worldwide with surfing. These are the plunging breakers.
At some point, the base of a wave can no longer support its top and consequently the [...]

Traveling through space and time as energetic agents, ocean waves are the result of disturbances of the water surface.

As some waves approach landmasses, they experience the breaking phenomenon, a happening associated worldwide with surfing. These are the plunging breakers.

At some point, the base of a wave can no longer support its top and consequently the wave’s profile begins to change. As it approaches the shore, the friction slows the base of the wave, but the top continues moving at its original speed, which causes the top to lean forward, creating a plunging breaker. The water outruns itself with no foundation and finally, the whole structure collapses, the plunging breaker’s energy being discharged with a tremendous force.

Click on image for a larger view

Photo by Chris Dixon via cdixon-photography

A plunging breaker wave forming a curling crest.

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